Page for useful/cool things to do with the laser cutter for new and experienced users
Resources / Project Ideas
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Makercase, for creating boxes, including with organiser dividers
Material tips
Acrylic
Engraving works best with the protective film off, but for cutting its good to keep it on as it keeps the surface clean
IPA can be used to clean up engraved and cut acrylic
Wood
All woods can be engraved, but not all cut cleanly, and some glues release nasty fumes. Lasersafe ply is guaranteed to cut well.
Masking tape put on the surface of the wood will stop burn marks
The density of plywood, unlike MDF and acrylic, is not uniform (it’s a natural material), so for a reliable cut, the speed should be set lower than is required for cutting through normally, as it needs to cut through the denser areas as well
Metal
Bare metal does not do anything under the laser, except reflect it back
The laser will however etch off paint and dye from metal. Anodised aluminium works great:
engravingaluminium
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Settings: 25 speed, 100 power, 0.5mm scan gap works fine (Costa)
Thin metal can buckle from the heat - turning off Bi-dir and lowering power helps with this
Costa has experience with this
Rubber
Normal silicone rubber is safe to cut and engrave on the laser, can be used to make custom stamps
Silicone rubber leaves behind a lot of white powder, which can be cleaned up with IPA and lots of scrubbing
Other types of rubber may be safe to cut, but research and make sure they absolutely do not contain chlorine
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Vinyl
Normal vinyl is not laser safe (Polyvinyl chloride, as the name suggests releases chlorine)
Laser safe vinyl is available online
Paper/Card
The air pump can be turned off when cutting paper to stop pieces getting blown everywhere. Remember to turn it back on when you're done
Layout paper (very wide masking tape) can be used to pick up all the pieces of your finished cut while keeping them together
The smaller laser cutter may be better at cutting paper as it can cut slower than the large one
2 colour Laminate
Glass
Glass can't be cut on the laser, but it can be “engraved”, in that the surface of the glass chips when under the heat of the laser, leaving a frosted surface (careful, as tiny bits of glass can break loose).
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Food
Food that lasers (not an exhaustive list):
Pancakes
Biscuits
Bread
ham
nori
tortillas
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Most of these taste terrible as the laser burns them
The laser cutter is very dirty, use a sheet of paper, cos the laser can chip enamel off normal plates (I think)
Misc
PLA
It can be cut but smells really bad so we don't recommend long cuts
Material has a tendency to warp when heated up
Longer and slower cuts can easily melt the material
If cutting 3D printed material the laser may seal the infill inside (as if it was cauterizing)
Techniques
Making 3D shapes by stacking 2D layers
Box generators
boxes.py is a nice site for generating different types of finger joint boxes
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Engraving Gray scale images
Method 1 - dithering
LaserCut 5.3 accepts monochrome bitmaps in “File” → “Open”
Simmilar process to
this, but our laser software cant import multiple colours:
Steps:
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use Gimp or ms paint to convert the image to a monochrome bitmap, alternatively imagemagick using: magick.exe in.png -monochrome -alpha off out.png (Windows) or convert in.png -monochrome -alpha off out.png (Linux)
open the image in LaserCut and scale it so one pixel corresponds to one line of the laser engrave (the height of the image in mm should equal the height of the image in pixels multiplied by the scan gap)
You can preview the output by clicking on “Laser” → “Simulate”
Method 2 - vectorising
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An image is divided up into multiple layers, one for each brightness level, in inkscape
Each layer is set to a different power setting in LaserCut
Painting
Double sided engraving
Rotary Axis
The Big laser has a rotary attachment for engraving and cutting cylindrical objects
To use it:
lower the bed of the laser down until you can see 2 switches and a socket on the right wall of the cutting area
bring the laser head to roughly the centre of the bed
plug in the rotary axis and flick both switches, this changes the laser from controlling the up/down motor to controlling the rotary axis motor
cutting and engraving is done exactly the same as before, you may need to adjust the vertical scaling to get a nice result
when you're done, don't forget to return the laser to the state you found it in
Making rigid material flexible with living hinges
Cutting thick material
The laser cutter has a limit to how thick it can cut, but this can be cheated with this technique:
Do one pass with the laser focused to the surface of the material
Then, focus the laser lower down and run the cut again
This will require some trial and error
Costa has experience with this
Hatching
In engrave settings, the scan gap can be set really high (eg 1mm or more) to create a hatching effect
This combined with an outline looks quite cool
TODO: insert image
Acrylic bending
Design
Removing duplicate lines
Kerf correction
Example of this in action (slope may be different for different materials and settings) in figure below:
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The laser cutter has something called “kerf”, if you send a 1cm square to the laser, the part will come out slightly smaller (~9.8mm)
This difference is about 0.1mm, so paths need to be offset by 0.1mm to compensate for this using the offset tool in Lasercut 5.3
Fusion 360 has a plugin which does kerf correction automatically:
link
This should also be possible with the “offset path” tool in any vector editing software like Inkscape or AI
Trapezoid Cross section
The top of the material spends more time in the laser beam than the bottom, this causes a draft angle on the edges
How pronounced the angle is depends on the thickness and type of material being cut
This is usually not an issue, but if it is, like if you want it stand up straight on its edge, you can sand it flat
Another option for designs with multiple laser cut parts, the direction of the draft angle can be flipped for mating edges
Examples of this in action:
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General Laser cutter inaccuracies
Material sourcing