Differences

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--- ultimaker2 [2018-09-06 20:43] – [Materials] DavidW
+++ ultimaker2 [2024-08-17 00:13] (current) – river
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 ====== Ultimaker 2 ======
+**N.B.** This printer normally has a glass build plate. The instructions below are for this. River is experimenting with a PEI plate, which you might find installed. If unsure please ask River or Miron, and avoid damaging the plate.
 We bought an Ultimaker 2 3D printer in December 2014. Thanks to all those who [[3dprinterpledges|helped fund it]].
@@ Line 7: / Line 9: @@
 Non-standard parts:
   * Olsson block
-  * Bondtech QR 3mm extruder kit (requires updated firmware from https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases)
+  * Bondtech QR 3mm extruder kit
+    * Requires updated firmware from https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases
+    * {{ :bond_tech_ultimaker_2_installation_guide.pdf |}}
 ===== Costs =====
-^Material^Colours^Members/funders^Non-members^
+See [[3dprinters#costs]].
-|PLA|Black, Natural, Red, White|£0.50/m|£4/hour|
 ===== Materials =====
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 See [[3dprinters#Approved filaments]]
-The printer can operate using PLA or ABS filament, with a 2.85mm diameter (sometimes sold as 3mm). PLA is preferred as it is cleaner to work with. If you wish to print with ABS then additional ventilation will be required to deal with styrene fumes.
+The printer can operate using all the normal filament types, with a 2.85mm diameter (sometimes sold as 3mm). If you wish to print with ABS then additional ventilation will be required to deal with styrene fumes. Better use the Voron which has some filtering. Abrasive filaments are also a job for the Voron, because it has a hard nozzle possibility.
-NinjaFlex (a flexible plastic) may also be used. [Question: Does this produce fumes?]
-We may wish to restrict printing to materials supplied by Hacklab to ensure that cheaper or inappropriate materials do not damage the printer. If someone wished to purchase their own filament for a larger project we could allow this as long as we can check the material in advance.
 ===== Rules (proposed) =====
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   * Clean the build plate after use.
-===== Software =====
+===== Slicers =====
-Download the Cura software from: http://software.ultimaker.com/
+Cura is the standard one for this printer, but you can also prusa slicer, which I think most people prefer. You need to be a bit careful with it though because it doesn't properly allow for the clips that hold the bed on. Keep parts away from the corners, and especially watch for prusa slicer adding brims in these areas.
 **Try not to let Cura update the firmware on the printer to the official one, as the upgraded extruder requires TinkerGnome.** See below if this happens.
@@ Line 41: / Line 40: @@
 Due to the improved extruder, this printer has been upgraded to TinkerGnome Marlin. If cura has updated the firmware to the official UM2 release, you'll have to reinstall TinkerGnome from https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases.
 ===== Quick-start guide =====
-    - Obtain your model(s) in STL format.
+    - Obtain your model(s) in 3MF or STL format.
-    - Open Cura, and load your model(s) via ''File -> Load model file...''
+    - Install cura. The .AppImage file you get for linux is an executable.
+    - Select Olsson block option. Select nozzle setting 0.4mm, which is the default.
+    - Load your model(s) via ''File -> Load model file...''
     - Click and drag on a model to place it where you want on the build plate. Multiple models will need a certain amount of clearance around them, as shown by a light grey area when the model is selected. Rotate, scale and mirror tools are in the bottom left of the 3D view when a model is selected.
     - Select a quality setting in the top left. 'Normal' seems to be good for most prints. (TODO: Add an image comparing the same print in different quality settings)
     - Once you're happy with the positioning and settings, save the GCode using ''File -> Save GCode''. Copy this file to the printer's SD card and insert the card back into the printer.
     - [[https://ultimaker.com/en/support/view/146-bed-leveling|Level the build plate]]. (TODO: Add some instructions below)
-    - Coat the build plate with a thin layer of glue using a glue stick, under where the part(s) will be printed.
+    - (Optional) Measure the diameter of the filament you are using and set this in the slicer. The filament may not be exactly what it is labelled as.
+    - Coat the glass build plate with a thin layer of glue using a glue stick, under where the part(s) will be printed. May not be needed depending on what you are printing.
     - Using the controls on the printer, go to ''Print'' and hover over your file.
     - Note down the length of filament to be used by the print and pay based on the costs above.
     - Select your file to start the print
+    - You may get better results by adjusting the temperatures. If the print is stringy try cooler. If it doesn't stick together well try hotter. Adjust 5 or 10 degrees at a time.
     - ...
     - Once the print is finished, wait for the printer to cool down and say it's okay to remove the part. You can remove it earlier, but you risk deforming the printed part or burning yourself on all the hot bits.
     - Clean the glue off the build plate with a damp cloth.
 ===== Documentation =====
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 ===== Log =====
+-08-17
+  * Experimenting with prusa smooth PEI build plate. It works.
+-05-10
+  * Moved to G14 for recommissioning. Belts jumping - nasty grinding noise, printer loosing position.
+  * Cleaned and oiled rails. Now working. Unknown oil from oil can.
+-08-03
+  * Belts are heard creaking, might need replacing within a year - Miron
+-11-??
+  * Belts were replaced to stop creaking noise
+  * LEDs were replaced as they started flickering. Spare 24V LEDs are in the infrastructure box
 -11-29: