Edinburgh Hacklab

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====== Ultimaker 2 ======

**N.B.** This printer normally has a glass build plate. The instructions below are for this. River is experimenting with a PEI plate, which you might find installed. If unsure please ask River or Miron, and avoid damaging the plate.

We bought an Ultimaker 2 3D printer in December 2014. Thanks to all those who [[3dprinterpledges|helped fund it]].

It has a build volume of 225 x 230 x 205 mm (final value is height).

Non-standard parts:
  * Olsson block
  * Bondtech QR 3mm extruder kit
    * Requires updated firmware from https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases
    * {{ :bond_tech_ultimaker_2_installation_guide.pdf |}}

===== Costs =====

See [[3dprinters#costs]].

===== Materials =====

See [[3dprinters#Approved filaments]]

The printer can operate using all the normal filament types, with a 2.85mm diameter (sometimes sold as 3mm). If you wish to print with ABS then additional ventilation will be required to deal with styrene fumes. Better use the Voron which has some filtering. Abrasive filaments are also a job for the Voron, because it has a hard nozzle possibility.

===== Rules (proposed) =====

  * Do not hack. The 3D printer is a tool, not a project.
  * Use the supplied material.
  * If you want to use your own material, it must be of good quality and approved before use (post to the members list).
  * If you want to use ABS (or other materials which produce fumes) you must relocate the printer to somewhere with good ventilation, flush out the ABS after use and return the printer to its normal place.
  * Clean the build plate after use.

===== Slicers =====

Cura is the standard one for this printer, but you can also prusa slicer, which I think most people prefer. You need to be a bit careful with it though because it doesn't properly allow for the clips that hold the bed on. Keep parts away from the corners, and especially watch for prusa slicer adding brims in these areas.

**Try not to let Cura update the firmware on the printer to the official one, as the upgraded extruder requires TinkerGnome.** See below if this happens.

===== Firmware =====

Due to the improved extruder, this printer has been upgraded to TinkerGnome Marlin. If cura has updated the firmware to the official UM2 release, you'll have to reinstall TinkerGnome from https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases.

===== Quick-start guide =====

    - Obtain your model(s) in 3MF or STL format.
    - Install cura. The .AppImage file you get for linux is an executable.
    - Select Olsson block option. Select nozzle setting 0.4mm, which is the default.
    - Load your model(s) via ''File -> Load model file...''
    - Click and drag on a model to place it where you want on the build plate. Multiple models will need a certain amount of clearance around them, as shown by a light grey area when the model is selected. Rotate, scale and mirror tools are in the bottom left of the 3D view when a model is selected.
    - Select a quality setting in the top left. 'Normal' seems to be good for most prints. (TODO: Add an image comparing the same print in different quality settings)
    - Once you're happy with the positioning and settings, save the GCode using ''File -> Save GCode''. Copy this file to the printer's SD card and insert the card back into the printer.
    - [[https://ultimaker.com/en/support/view/146-bed-leveling|Level the build plate]]. (TODO: Add some instructions below)
    - (Optional) Measure the diameter of the filament you are using and set this in the slicer. The filament may not be exactly what it is labelled as.
    - Coat the glass build plate with a thin layer of glue using a glue stick, under where the part(s) will be printed. May not be needed depending on what you are printing.
    - Using the controls on the printer, go to ''Print'' and hover over your file.
    - Note down the length of filament to be used by the print and pay based on the costs above.
    - Select your file to start the print
    - You may get better results by adjusting the temperatures. If the print is stringy try cooler. If it doesn't stick together well try hotter. Adjust 5 or 10 degrees at a time.
    - ...
    - Once the print is finished, wait for the printer to cool down and say it's okay to remove the part. You can remove it earlier, but you risk deforming the printed part or burning yourself on all the hot bits.
    - Clean the glue off the build plate with a damp cloth.

===== Documentation =====

https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/36/original/Ultimaker_2_User_Manual_V1.12.pdf\\
https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/38/original/Cura_User-Manual_v1.0.pdf\\
[[http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide|A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide]]\\
[[http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints|Hints and tips for getting better prints]]

===== Log =====

2024-08-17

  * Experimenting with prusa smooth PEI build plate. It works.
 
2024-05-10
  * Moved to G14 for recommissioning. Belts jumping - nasty grinding noise, printer loosing position.
  * Cleaned and oiled rails. Now working. Unknown oil from oil can.

2023-08-03
  * Belts are heard creaking, might need replacing within a year - Miron

2019-11-??
  * Belts were replaced to stop creaking noise
  * LEDs were replaced as they started flickering. Spare 24V LEDs are in the infrastructure box

2017-11-29:

  * Bondtech QR 3mm extruder fitted
  * Tinker-Marlin firmware 17.10.1 installed (from https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases)
  * Tuned PID on the head