Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- voron_2_4_r2 [2023-04-29 15:49] – jaso55555
+++ voron_2_4_r2 [2025-03-02 03:52] (current) – build volume MirZa
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-====== Voron 2.4 r2 ======
+====== Voron 2.4 r2 (300mm³) ======
-Lended to the lab by Jacob Lewis
+Lent to the lab by Jacob Lewis
+Build volume is 290mm x 290mm build plate x 260mm high
 ===== Costs =====
-^Material^Members/funders^Non-members^
+See [[3dprinters#costs]].
-|PLA|£0.30/m|£4/hour|
 ===== Materials =====
-Same policy as the [[prusa_i3_mk_3|Original Prusa i3 MK3s]], if your materials are allowed on there, you may use them here.
+Please speak to Jacob before using any filament not on this list.
-**ABS** - The printer is enclosed and has a carbon filter on the back so fumes shouldn't be an issue (MMV)
+==== PLA ====
+  * [[https://www.esun3d.com/|eSun]]. ePLA matte is recommended; cheap, prints very nicely, matte finish looks wonderful.
+  * Some of Farnell's own brand "Multicomp" appears to be made by eSun. Certainly the ePLA matte, including the iconic "Femboy pink". It is available a bit cheaper than the eSun on amazon if you order through a university account.
+  * [[https://hatchbox3d.com/|Hatchbox]]
+  * [[https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/computing-peripherals/3d-printing-scanning/3d-printing-materials/|RS Pro]]
+  * [[https://amz3d.com/|AMZ3D]]
+  * [[https://colorfabb.com/|ColorFab]]
+  * [[https://www.sunlu.com/en-gb|SunLU]]
+  * [[https://prusament.com/materials/pla/|Prusament]]
-**TPU/TPE** - Until a non-pei bed gets purchased, do not print this material as it will damage the PEI coating.
+==== PETG ====
+  * [[https://prusament.com/|Prusament]]
+  * [[https://hatchbox3d.com/|Hatchbox]]
+==== ABS ====
+  * [[https://www.esun3d.com/|eSun]]
+    * ABS+ is recommended, prints easier than other brands/types, and has a nice matte finish
+Please open the window and dangle the exhaust pipe outside for the duration of your print.
+==== TPU/TPE ====
+  * [[https://www.esun3d.com/|eSun]]
+Please use the carbon fibre bed, usually kept to the left of the printer. This bed cannot be run above 60 degrees or the PET coating will be damaged.
+==== Other Materials ====
+This printer has multiple nozzles, one of which is a [[https://e3d-online.com/products/revo-obxidian-nozzles?variant=40819140886587|0.4mm ObXsidian nozzle]], which can handle abrasive filament without damage. ONLY THIS NOZZLE MAY BE USED WITH ABRASIVE FILAMENTS.
+Abrasive filaments include:
+  * Carbon fibre (CF) filaments
+  * Glow in the dark filaments
+  * Copperfill (Metalfill) filaments
+  * Wood filaments
+  * Conductive filaments
+Please do some research before using these materials, and use the spare PEI bed and/or exhaust pipe if needed.
 ===== Rules =====
@@ Line 21: / Line 56: @@
   * Do not try to remove any SD cards, prints are uploaded via the web interface
   * This printer is designed for hacking, however if you wish to modify it please message Jacob (Jaso55555#3253) before you do anything
-  * Don't touch the config/tuning/settings unless Jacob has told you to
+  * Don't touch the config/tuning/settings unless Jacob has told you to/you need to change the nozzles
   * Don't use sharp tools on the PEI bed, it will scratch and damage it. If a print is stuck pull it off with pliers, bump it off with the corner of another print/plastic spatula or if it will not come off *VERY CAREFULLY* pull off with snips.
   * Use the correct Gcode with this machine, generated with approved slicers.
@@ Line 27: / Line 62: @@
 ===== Calibration =====
-Before each print the printer will home, Quad gantry level and then home again.
+Before each print the printer will home, Quad gantry level and then home again. After that it will bed mesh level
-<del>For now when homing you must watch the printer as it lowers to the endstop (Little metal button at back right, position 202,300) as occasionally the nozzle may miss this button causing the printer to be leveled incorrectly</del>
-<del>As long as you run the extruder hot before the print starts, this is a non-issue, I will remedy this later.</del>
 **Quad gantry leveling** - The printer will sample 4 points across the bed allowing it to orient the flying gantry correctly. This may happen a few times until within tolerance.
-If layer shifts are occuring the XY belts may be loose. First check by moving the printhead to the middle of the bed, and trying to move the printhead in diagonal directions. If it does have >0.2mm play, then a belt is loose. Look at the belts on the front sides and see which moves when the printhead gets shaken diagonally, if it moves, tighten the screw on the front of the gantry until there is no longer play. If this does not resolve the problem you are tightening the wrong screw.
+If layer shifts are occuring the XY belts may be loose. First check by moving the toolhead to the middle of the bed, and trying to move the printhead in diagonal directions. If it does have >0.2mm play, then a belt is loose. Look at the belts on the front sides and see which moves when the toolhead gets shaken diagonally, if it moves, tighten the screw on the front of the gantry until there is no longer play. If this does not resolve the problem you are tightening the wrong screw.
@@ Line 44: / Line 76: @@
 ===== Slicer Setup =====
 There are 2 approved slicers:
- - PrusaSlicer (__Beta 2.6.0-alpha6 ONLY__)\
- - SuperSlicer
+  * PrusaSlicer (Minimum supported version is 2.6.0)
+  * SuperSlicer (Depricated)
-For now please use [[https://github.com/supermerill/SuperSlicer|SuperSlicer]], this is a fork of PrusaSlicer which has builtin presets for the Voron 2.4, setup is basically the same as the Prusa MK3. <del>To setup a connection, go to **Printer Settings** and click the cog next to the preset at the top right. Use these settings:{{::fluidd-config.png?400|}}.</del>
+==== PrusaSlicer: ====
+You can find the latest version [[https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases/| here]].
+The config file can be found [[https://github.com/Jaso55555/MyVoronConfig/blob/main/PrusaSlicer_config_bundle.ini|here]].
+To import the presets use: "File -> Import -> Config Bundle"
+==== Super Slicer (Depricated) ====
+[[https://github.com/supermerill/SuperSlicer|SuperSlicer]]
+This is a fork of PrusaSlicer which has builtin presets for the Voron 2.4, setup is basically the same as the Prusa MK3. <del>To setup a connection, go to **Printer Settings** and click the cog next to the preset at the top right. Use these settings:{{::fluidd-config.png?400|}}.</del>
 First, under the printer selection dropdown menu, click "Add/remove printers" -> "Add/remove presets",
@@ Line 74: / Line 117: @@
 If something has crashed, use Firmware Restart -> Restart Klipper inside the system sidebar. If this does not work try a power cycle.
+===== Common Printer Tasks =====
+==== Changing Filament ====
+  * Start by warming the nozzle via either the web interface or **Temperature > Ex0** on the built-in control panel
+    It should be set to the highest temperature of the previous material and the desired one
+PLA: 200, PETG: 230, ABS: 240
+  * Then either by using the web interface or **Filament > Unload Slow** retract the filament so it can be pulled out of the bowden tube at the back of the printer.
+Please make sure to keep the filament tight on the spool, otherwise it can cause knots. Every spool has some form of holes in it which you can thread the filament through to keep it from unwinding.
+  * Next insert the new filament and extrude via the web interface or **Filament > Load Slow**
+Keep doing this until the correct colour has been reached. Black filaments can stain the nozzle so this might need to be done a few times.
+==== Changing Nozzle ====
+The printer has been fitted with a Rapid-change revo extruder which allows quick and easy nozzle changes.\\
+We have 0.15mm (Pink), 0.25mm (Yellow), 0.4mm (Red), 0.6mm (Blue) and 0.8mm (Green) nozzles. These are currently kept in a pink box above the voron. There is also a [[https://e3d-online.com/products/revo-obxidian-nozzles?variant=40819140886587|0.4mm ObXsidian nozzle]] nozzle for abrasive filaments. Extra silicon socks and hotside springs are also kept in the box if one breaks. Please message Jacob if any of these run out of spares.
+  * Start by unloading the current filament and then cooling down the hotend (increasing the part cooling fan speed can help this go quicker).
+  * Then raise the printhead off the bed to allow access to the nozzle (using Move after Home).
+  * Unscrew the nozzle gently and screw in the new one.
+  * Next go into the web interface and go to **Sidebar > Config > toolhead.conf**
+  * At the top please comment/uncomment the correct extruder
+For example if you want the 0.25mm extruder, it should look like this:
+    # CHANGING NOZZLE/HOTEND
+    # Comment/uncomment the appropriate config to change the nozzle
+    # [include revo-0.15.cfg] # Revo 0.15 (Pink)
+    [include revo-0.25.cfg] # Revo 0.25 (Yellow)
+    # [include revo-0.4.cfg]  # Revo 0.4 (Red)
+    # [include revo-0.6.cfg]  # Revo 0.6 (Blue)
+    # [include revo-0.8.cfg]  # Revo 0.8 (Green)
+  * Hit **save & restart** at the top of the editor (this is not available on a phone, you need to **save** and then **restart**). **DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE IN THE CONFIG FILE**
+  * Load filament and print as normal. Do make sure your slicer is updated to the correct nozzle size.
+  * Once you're done with the different nozzle, please swap it back to the 0.4mm one.