Lended to the lab by Jacob Lewis

See costs.

Please speak to Jacob before using any filament not on this list.

• eSun. ePLA matte is recommended; cheap, prints very nicely, matte finish looks wonderful.
• Some of Farnell's own brand “Multicomp” appears to be made by eSun. Certainly the ePLA matte, including the iconic “Femboy pink”. It is available a bit cheaper than the eSun on amazon if you order through a university account.
• Hatchbox
• RS Pro
• AMZ3D
• ColorFab
• SunLU
• Prusament

• Prusament
• Hatchbox

• eSun
  • ABS+ is recommended, prints easier than other brands/types, and has a nice matte finish

Please open the window and dangle the exhaust pipe outside for the duration of your print.

• eSun

Please use the carbon fibre bed, usually kept to the left of the printer. This bed cannot be run above 60 degrees or the PET coating will be damaged.

This printer has multiple nozzles, one of which is a 0.4mm ObXsidian nozzle, which can handle abrasive filament without damage. ONLY THIS NOZZLE MAY BE USED WITH ABRASIVE FILAMENTS. Abrasive filaments include:

• Carbon fibre (CF) filaments
• Glow in the dark filaments
• Copperfill (Metalfill) filaments
• Wood filaments
• Conductive filaments

Please do some research before using these materials, and use the spare PEI bed and/or exhaust pipe if needed.

• Do not print until you absolutely know what you're doing, this printer is much more complex than the other two and until it's it fully dialed in things can go wrong
• Do not try to remove any SD cards, prints are uploaded via the web interface
• This printer is designed for hacking, however if you wish to modify it please message Jacob (Jaso55555#3253) before you do anything
• Don't touch the config/tuning/settings unless Jacob has told you to/you need to change the nozzles
• Don't use sharp tools on the PEI bed, it will scratch and damage it. If a print is stuck pull it off with pliers, bump it off with the corner of another print/plastic spatula or if it will not come off *VERY CAREFULLY* pull off with snips.
• Use the correct Gcode with this machine, generated with approved slicers.

Before each print the printer will home, Quad gantry level and then home again. After that it will bed mesh level

Quad gantry leveling - The printer will sample 4 points across the bed allowing it to orient the flying gantry correctly. This may happen a few times until within tolerance.

If layer shifts are occuring the XY belts may be loose. First check by moving the toolhead to the middle of the bed, and trying to move the printhead in diagonal directions. If it does have >0.2mm play, then a belt is loose. Look at the belts on the front sides and see which moves when the toolhead gets shaken diagonally, if it moves, tighten the screw on the front of the gantry until there is no longer play. If this does not resolve the problem you are tightening the wrong screw.

The printer is running klipper, along with Fluidd as the web interface.

There are 2 approved slicers:

• PrusaSlicer (Minimum supported version is 2.6.0)
• SuperSlicer (Depricated)

You can find the latest version here.

The config file can be found here.

To import the presets use: “File → Import → Config Bundle”

SuperSlicer

This is a fork of PrusaSlicer which has builtin presets for the Voron 2.4, setup is basically the same as the Prusa MK3. To setup a connection, go to Printer Settings and click the cog next to the preset at the top right. Use these settings:.

First, under the printer selection dropdown menu, click “Add/remove printers” → “Add/remove presets”, then tick the box under “Voron → Voron v2 Afterburner Family → Voron v2 300mm3 → 0.4mm nozzle”

first, under the printer selection dropdown menu, click “Add/remove printers” → “Add physical printer” Host Type: OctoPrint
Hostname: voron24.hacklab

You can import https://github.com/Jaso55555/MyVoronConfig/blob/main/SuperSlicer_config_bundle.ini under: File → Import Config Bundle

Once you have finished slicing, send the gcode to the web interface by clicking the send to printer button to the right of the Export GCode

You may access the web interface via voron24.hacklab/.

For now please do not start prints unless you are directly supervising the printer. Absolutely never start a print via a VPN. If the web interface is abused it will be put under username and password.

Prints may be found in the Jobs sidebar, and started from there.

To load/unload filament you can either use the web interface, heat the extruder and extrude/retract or use the screen (Filament tab), set the temperature and load/unload slow. DO NOT USE FAST LOAD/UNLOAD, the extruder can't keep up

If something has crashed, use Firmware Restart → Restart Klipper inside the system sidebar. If this does not work try a power cycle.

• Start by warming the nozzle via either the web interface or Temperature > Ex0 on the built-in control panel

It should be set to the highest temperature of the previous material and the desired one PLA: 200, PETG: 230, ABS: 240

• Then either by using the web interface or Filament > Unload Slow retract the filament so it can be pulled out of the bowden tube at the back of the printer.

Please make sure to keep the filament tight on the spool, otherwise it can cause knots. Every spool has some form of holes in it which you can thread the filament through to keep it from unwinding.

• Next insert the new filament and extrude via the web interface or Filament > Load Slow

Keep doing this until the correct colour has been reached. Black filaments can stain the nozzle so this might need to be done a few times.

The printer has been fitted with a Rapid-change revo extruder which allows quick and easy nozzle changes.
We have 0.15mm (Pink), 0.25mm (Yellow), 0.4mm (Red), 0.6mm (Blue) and 0.8mm (Green) nozzles. These are currently kept in a pink box above the voron. There is also a 0.4mm ObXsidian nozzle nozzle for abrasive filaments. Extra silicon socks and hotside springs are also kept in the box if one breaks. Please message Jacob if any of these run out of spares.

• Start by unloading the current filament and then cooling down the hotend (increasing the part cooling fan speed can help this go quicker).
• Then raise the printhead off the bed to allow access to the nozzle (using Move after Home).
• Unscrew the nozzle gently and screw in the new one.

• Next go into the web interface and go to Sidebar > Config > toolhead.conf
• At the top please comment/uncomment the correct extruder

For example if you want the 0.25mm extruder, it should look like this:

  # CHANGING NOZZLE/HOTEND
  # Comment/uncomment the appropriate config to change the nozzle
  # [include revo-0.15.cfg] # Revo 0.15 (Pink)
  [include revo-0.25.cfg] # Revo 0.25 (Yellow)
  # [include revo-0.4.cfg]  # Revo 0.4 (Red)
  # [include revo-0.6.cfg]  # Revo 0.6 (Blue)
  # [include revo-0.8.cfg]  # Revo 0.8 (Green)

• Hit save & restart at the top of the editor (this is not available on a phone, you need to save and then restart). DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE IN THE CONFIG FILE
• Load filament and print as normal. Do make sure your slicer is updated to the correct nozzle size.
• Once you're done with the different nozzle, please swap it back to the 0.4mm one.