Left (small pillar drill): Tull LT-16J
- Adjusting the belt tension and changing the speed is done with the big nut and bolt on the right side, which allows the motor to pivot. Video on changing the speed
Right (Large Blue pillar drill): Union PD2 by Boxford
- If you oil the stand of the blue pillar drill with PTFE lubricant, the table becomes much easier to move up and down
- Blue drill has an integrated thermal overload relay which is supposed to cut out above 2 Amps when overloaded (don't try triggering it though)
Maintenance log for Tull:
- 22 Sept 2020 - Belts fitted, drill works
- 14 Sept 2020 - Motor replaced. It was slightly taller and box around the belt didn't allow it to pivot enough to tension the belts - the hole in the box for the motor was enlarged and slightly shorter belts were ordered
- 4 Sept 2020 - Tull drill press motor started smoking after a piece of metal fell inside (speculation) when cleaning the top box
Maintenance log for Union:
- 28 Sept 2020 - Union drill fixed. The a coil on one of the poles of the thermal overload relay integrated into the NVR contactor melted. Fix was to replace it with the coil from the unused pole of 3 phase contactor.
- 13 Sept 2020 - Union drill reported broken
- (couple years ago, 2017?) Union pillar drill hacked to work with 230V single phase instead of 400V three phase.
- “Costa and I fitted it with a DC supply for the contactor's latching electromagnet via a mains capacitor drop so it would work off a 240V supply after the motor was replaced (it wouldn't latch when fed with 240V AC). The motor supply is switched by one of the contactor's three sets of fingers. IIRC the required DC voltage to the electromagnet to get it to latch was about 60V – much more and it would overheat.” - Rob Sneddon
pillardrill.txt · Last modified: 2021-02-22 15:33 by MirZa